Let’s first cover time. Time is how long it takes to become proficient with the bow. If you’re going hunting next week for example, then your only option is the compound. It’s the only one where you can pick up a bow and within an hour be quite proficient with it. For an average beginner, the time it takes to become as proficient with an olympic recurve as that would be around 1 month. For traditional bow then that time goes longer to 6 months. It takes a long time and a lot more dedication to learn how to shoot a traditional bow compared to a compound. The Olympic recurve is somewhere between the two, but closer in difficulty to the traditional bow rather than the compound. Out of the three, I usually suggest the olympic recurve for beginners, simply because it forces you to use proper form to shoot or you won’t hit the target at all, but at the same time it takes away the need to learn how to aim at the beginning. The only difference between an olympic recurve and a traditional recurve is the olympic one has a sight.

Then there’s purpose. What are you planning to do with the bow. Do you like to compete, do you want to hunt, or just for recreation? How serious you plan to be with this sport determines where you need to start. The more serious you plan to be, the lower the poundage you need to start with. High poundage causes form problems that will be very hard to correct down the road. If you have olympic dreams then the choice is clear, only olympic recurves are allowed there. If you want to hunt quickly as said above, the compound is your best bet.

Last, budget. Traditional bows are the cheapest to buy, if you’re talking about the whole kit. With traditional bows, all you need to buy is the bow, arrows, string, glove, arm guard, quiver, and bow stringer. Olympic style recurve, you need to buy the bow, arrows, string, arrow rest, plunger, sight, finger tab, arm guard, quiver, later on you’ll add clicker, stabilizer, chest protector. Compound is the most expensive, not only are the accessories more expensive the maintenance also cost more. You buy the bow, arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, release, arrows, quiver, arm guard, sound like a shorter list compared to the olympic recurve, but a compound sight can cost as much as double a recurve sight. Arrow rests also cost a lot more, sometimes triple the recurve counter part.

When you buy arrows, I suggest you get aluminum for your first set, buy them already made. Aluminums are durable and cheap. When buying the aluminums request arrows with thick wall, wall thickness above 14/1000″ is preferred for durability. You can get a set of world class aluminum arrows for $ 50/dozen, while crappy carbon arrows costs $ 100/dozen.

Good luck and good shooting.

If you are just starting out, go with cheaper arrows. You want arrows to be sized to your arm length so that you can fully draw the bow. If you already know this to be 32″, then you’re good to go. Once you’re able to hit the target consistently, you can get graphite or carbon arrows without worrying about splintering them, but they can be expensive to replace, so I would start with wood or aluminum.

There are different heads for target or hunting. You don’t want to hit your target with broadhead hunting points as you will destroy the target. You don’t want to hit your prey with a target point because it will only prolong its suffering.

Your best bet is likely to get complete target arrows. They will come with the arrow head, fletching (feathers), knock and be all ready to go. I included a link below to the PSE arrows page, but their not cheap ones. Try a big box store (Target, Walmart, Sports Authority, etc.) for cheaper arrows.

This information may be remedial for you if you have been shooting for awhile and I apologize. If not, I hope it is useful and wish you luck.

http://pse-archery.com/c/carbon-force-arrows_ext-target-arrows-and-shafts

1:100
1:1000
etc

Wikipedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineering_drawing
Showing dimensions
The required sizes of features are conveyed through use of dimensions. Distances may be indicated with either of two standardized forms of dimension: linear and ordinate.

With linear dimensions, two parallel lines, called “extension lines,” spaced at the distance between two features, are shown at each of the features. A line perpendicular to the extension lines, called a “dimension line,” with arrows at its endpoints, is shown between, and terminating at, the extension lines. The distance is indicated numerically at the midpoint of the dimension line, either adjacent to it, or in a gap provided for it.
With ordinate dimensions, one horizontal and one vertical extension line establish an origin for the entire view. The origin is identified with zeroes placed at the ends of these extension lines. Distances along the x- and y-axes to other features are specified using other extension lines, with the distances indicated numerically at their ends.
Sizes of circular features are indicated using either diametral or radial dimensions. Radial dimensions use an “R” followed by the value for the radius; Diametral dimensions use a circle with forward-leaning diagonal line through it, called the diameter symbol, followed by the value for the diameter. A radially-aligned line with arrowhead pointing to the circular feature, called a leader, is used in conjunction with both diametral and radial dimensions. All types of dimensions are typically composed of two parts: the nominal value, which is the “ideal” size of the feature, and the tolerance, which specifies the amount that the value may vary above and below the nominal.

Geometric Dimensioning and Tolerancing is a method of specifying the functional geometry of an object

Addenda
The actual dimension (medida, por ejemplo 5 or 6) is what you write over the ‘linea de cota’. So you would say ‘Actual dimension =6′ over the ‘linea de cota’.